Inside the 11th-Century Cave Churches of Göreme

Rediscovered by Europeans in the 18th century, Göreme has a history that stretches back thousands of years. Once used as a necropolis by the Romans, it became a significant Christian hub during the early Middle Ages. This small city is one of many towns in Cappadocia, central Turkey, where entire communities were carved into the region's iconic fairy chimney rock formations.

Beyond its famous balloon rides, Göreme is home to the Göreme Open Air Museum, a fascinating collection of caves that were carved and inhabited for centuries. Entrance to the museum costs 30 Turkish Lira, with an additional 10 Lira for access to the Dark Church.

Göreme’s significance lies in its role as a pilgrimage site for Christians and a sacred burial ground. Many of its caves were carved into churches, making it an important center for nuns and monks during its peak.

On our way from the hotel to the museum we were already able to see rooms carved into the stone. This is a common sight in the region.

The Göreme Open Air Museum is essentially an early medieval city carved into the rock. This intricate network of interconnected tunnels and caves is like a human ant hill, showcasing an ingenious way of life that left me amazed. People lived entirely inside the stone, with everything they needed to sustain their community right at their fingertips.

What truly stands out are the stunning paintings found in many of the caves, remarkably well-preserved despite the passage of centuries. However, as a photographer, I found it disappointing that photos are prohibited in most places. Sadly, this means I can’t share many of the breathtaking sights with you in this post.

St. Basil’s Chapel

The first church you’ll encounter is St. Basil’s Chapel, carved in the 11th century. It’s one of the simplest structures in the entire complex, with everything slightly crooked and rough around the edges—not exactly a showcase of fine craftsmanship, but it holds its own rustic charm as a window into the past."

St. George is one of the various paintings inside the Chapel of St. Basil.

St. Basil (left) and St. Theodore (right) spearing a snake are also depicted inside the church.

Following a map, visitors explore the caves in a designated order. At first glance, many entrances appear to be little more than ordinary homes. Inside, you can spot carvings on the walls resembling shelves and pits, likely used for fires. Most rooms have ceilings blackened by centuries of smoke, evidence of the fires that once warmed and lit these spaces.

The ceiling in many of the rooms is black, which I deduce is from lighting a fire to keep warm. Shelf space is carved into the walls and a pit on the floor.

Two graves are seen in a small enclave in the mountain under a painting.

I wonder if all this grime is recent. I would expect people to suffocate with so much smoke.

The Dark Church (Karanlık Kilise)

Widely regarded as the most beautiful and famous cave church in Cappadocia, the Dark Church is an absolute must-see, though it requires an additional fee to enter. Built in the 11th century, the church features stunning columns and domes adorned with intricate paintings set against vibrant blue backgrounds. Interestingly, locals in the early 20th century repurposed this sacred site as a pigeon house—a curious chapter in its long history.

This is the façade of the Dark Church. I imagine back in the day this was also inside. Apparently a lot has changed in the last few centuries here.

The exterior façade of the Dark Church has graffiti dating back at least 4 centuries.

St. Catherine’s Chapel

The image of St. Catherine can be seen in the center, between St. Theodore and St. Procopius.

After wandering through countless rooms filled with ancient history, we stumbled upon a small bar nestled inside one of the caves. To our surprise, they even accepted credit cards—a modern touch in such an ancient setting.

Sandal Church

Part of a larger monastic complex, the Sandal Church is home to Cappadocia’s best-preserved refectory. Here, the benches and tables were carved directly into the stone, offering a glimpse into the daily life of the monks who once lived here.

The Sandal Church Refectory is the best preserved in all of Cappadocia.

Rose Valley

On another day, we embarked on a thrilling quad bike tour around Göreme. The ride took us to Rose Valley, a breathtaking area dotted with ruins. It was an exhilarating and worthwhile experience, blending adventure with history.

These ruins are at the Rose Valley, right next to where they take us to see the sunset. There is usually a guy there selling pomegranate juice out of the back of his car.

There are churches and paintings like these everywhere.

Rose Valley location, just north of Göreme:

 

Cappadocia is also home to dozens of other churches and an entire underground city, which fans of Assassin’s Creed Revelations might recognize.

Visiting Göreme is like stepping into a time capsule of human ingenuity and resilience. Be sure to experience the unique beauty of these ancient constructions for yourself—it’s a journey you’ll never forget.